Custom apparel glossary: GSM, DTF, pique and more

Custom apparel has its own vocabulary, and most of it is simpler than it sounds. GSM is how heavy a fabric is. DTF, DTG, screen printing and sublimation are four ways of printing. Tipping and jacquard are ways of building colour into a polo collar. Core, extended and Pantone are the three ways a garment gets its colour. Each definition below is short, and each links to the guide that explains it in full.

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Custom apparel glossary: GSM, DTF, pique and more

If you are new to all of this, the place to start is embroidery or print, which covers the five ways a logo goes onto a garment.

Fabric and garment terms

  • GSM: grams per square metre, the weight of a fabric. A higher number means a heavier, denser cloth. Our Signature Crewneck is 220 GSM; the Classic Hoodie is 300 GSM. What GSM means.
  • Combed cotton: cotton whose short fibres have been combed out before spinning, which makes a smoother, stronger yarn that pills less.
  • Single jersey: the plain knit of most t-shirts, smooth on the face and lighter on the back.
  • Interlock: a double knit, smooth on both sides and heavier than single jersey. Our Signature Crewneck is interlock. Choosing t-shirt fabric.
  • Pique: a textured cotton knit used for polos. It breathes and holds its shape. Airtex is a pique-style knit with a more open, airy texture; our Classic and Heavy Polos are made in it. Choosing a company polo.
  • Fleece: a knit brushed on the inside so it is soft and warm, used for hoodies and sweatshirts.
  • Loopback or French terry: a knit with flat loops on the inside instead of brushed fleece, lighter and more breathable. Hoodie styles for teams.
  • Bio-wash: an enzyme wash that removes loose surface fibres, so the fabric feels softer and pills less.
  • Shrinkage arrest: a finishing step that shrinks the cloth before it is cut, so the garment keeps its size after washing.
  • Oversized fit: a cut that is deliberately wider and longer than a regular fit, often with a dropped or forward shoulder.
  • Crew neck: a round neck finished with a ribbed band. On a sweatshirt it is the main difference from a hoodie. Sweatshirt or hoodie.
  • Windcheater: a thin, light shell jacket that blocks wind and light rain. A bomber is a fuller jacket with ribbed collar, cuffs and hem. Choosing a company jacket.
  • Chef coat: a kitchen jacket, single or double breasted, also called a chef jacket. Choosing a chef coat.

Polo and garment parts

  • Placket: the strip at the front of a polo neck where the buttons sit. The inner placket is the under-strip the buttons are sewn onto.
  • Rib: a stretchy knit used for collars, cuffs and waistbands.
  • Flat knit collar: a polo collar knitted in rib in one colour, the standard collar.
  • Tipping: one or two thin stripes of a second colour knitted into the edge of a polo collar and cuffs.
  • Jacquard collar: a collar with a pattern or lettering knitted into it, from 50 pieces with us.
  • Self-fabric collar: a collar cut from the same cloth as the body, like a shirt collar. Polo collar styles.
  • Blank: a stock garment in a stock colour that a logo is added to. A brand-built garment is made with your choice of fabric, part colours and collar. Logo on a blank or a brand-built garment.

Printing and embroidery terms

  • DTF (direct to film): a full-colour design printed onto film with adhesive, then heat pressed onto the garment. Works on any fabric. Screen printing or DTF.
  • DTG (direct to garment): ink printed straight into cotton, like an inkjet, with almost no feel. Screen printing or DTG.
  • Screen printing: ink pushed through a mesh screen, one screen per colour. Cheapest per piece on long runs of simple artwork.
  • Sublimation: dye turned into a gas by heat so it enters polyester fibres. It cannot crack or peel. What sublimation printing is.
  • Sticker print: an Indian shop name for a heat transfer, such as cut vinyl or DTF. Rubber print usually means a thick, opaque screen print. T-shirt sticker printing.
  • Heat press: the machine that applies heat and pressure to bond a transfer to fabric.
  • Embroidery: a design stitched in thread. The most durable way to put a logo on a garment.
  • Digitising: turning a logo into a stitch file an embroidery machine can follow. With us it is ₹300 once per design on orders under 100 pieces, and free from 100. Embroidery digitising explained.
  • Print sizes A6 to A3: the paper sizes a print is priced by, from A6 (10.5 by 14.8 cm) to A3 (29.7 by 42 cm). At 1 to 9 pieces a DTF print is ₹50 at A6 and ₹265 at A3.
  • Left chest: the usual place for a small logo on a tee, polo or jacket. Logo placement on t-shirts.
  • Vector file: artwork made of shapes rather than pixels (AI, EPS, SVG or a vector PDF), which scales to any size. Preparing your logo.

Colour terms

  • Core colour: one of 15 colours kept in cloth, available from one piece.
  • Extended colour: one of 12 further colours, dyed to order from 75 pieces. Why colour minimums differ.
  • Pantone: a numbered colour reference system. With us, a body dyed to your Pantone starts at 300 pieces and takes 30 days.
  • Lab dip: a small swatch dyed to test a colour recipe against a reference before the full batch is dyed.
  • Dye lot: one batch of dyed cloth. Two lots of the same colour can differ slightly. How fabric is dyed to a Pantone.
  • Contrast parts: collars, cuffs, plackets, sleeves, hoods or pockets in a colour different from the body. Matching uniforms to brand colours.

Ordering terms

  • Mockup: a picture of your order before it is made, showing the design on the garment in position, at size, in its colours. Nothing is made until you approve it. How to check a mockup.
  • Minimum order (MOQ): the fewest pieces an option can be made in. One piece on most of our range.
  • Dispatch tier: how long an order takes from mockup approval: from 4 days, 12 days or 30 days, depending on colour, parts, method and quantity.
  • Saved specification: the garment, colour, artwork and placement kept after an order, so reorders match. Planning a staff uniform order.
  • GST invoice: the tax invoice issued with every order, which lets a registered business claim input credit.

Ready to put the words to use? Start with custom t-shirt printing and send us your logo.

Quick answers

What does GSM mean in t-shirts?

Grams per square metre, the weight of the fabric. A higher GSM is a heavier, denser cloth. It describes weight, not quality on its own, so it is read together with the fabric and the knit.

What is pique fabric?

A textured cotton knit used for polo shirts. It breathes, holds its shape and has a slightly raised surface. Airtex is a pique-style knit with a more open texture.

What is tipping on a polo?

One or two thin stripes of a second colour knitted into the edge of a polo collar and usually the cuffs. Because it is knitted in, it cannot peel.

What is the difference between DTF and DTG?

DTF prints a design onto film and heat presses it onto the garment, so it works on any fabric and leaves a thin film. DTG prints ink straight into cotton, with almost no feel, and suits cotton best.

What is a lab dip?

A small swatch of fabric dyed to test a colour recipe against a reference, such as a Pantone, before the full batch of cloth is dyed.

Proof of work

Made for teams who could have gone anywhere.

1,000+

Startups and enterprises

Have had their merch made by us.

1M

Pieces made

In our own factory, so far.

1

Piece minimum

In our core colours, on most of the range.

4

Days to dispatch

At the quickest, from artwork approved. Up to 30 for big or detailed orders.

  • ISOISO 9001:2015 certifiedQuality management, by QRO
  • DPIIT recognisedStartup India, DIPP249039
  • MSME registeredUDYAM-TN-09-0099917
  • GST registeredKarnataka and Tamil Nadu

Teams we have made for

  • ★★★★★
    “Fantastic quality and timely delivery! Our company ordered custom polo shirts, and they came out perfect. Highly recommend for corporate apparel needs!”

    Moulya M.Google review, Fleeke, Kadubeesanahalli

  • ★★★★★
    “This is my second time ordering from Fleek, and once again I came with tight timelines and high expectations… great quality and absolutely worth the money. Definitely go to place for bulk orders”

    Jasmine V.Google review, Fleeke, Koramangala

  • ★★★★★
    “Impressed by the quality of the service I got my logo embroidered in my polo shirt precisely. From placing the order to delivering the tshirts they did a good job.”

    B. T.Google review, Fleeke, Kadubeesanahalli

  • ★★★★★
    “Loved how they handled our order of custom tees. From design support to delivery, everything was smooth. Great customer care!!!”

    Bellinda A.Google review, Fleeke, Kadubeesanahalli

  • ★★★★★
    “Great quality T-shirts and prints, delivered it in 2 days. Best part is that their shop has lots of other swag items where you can walk in and check quality before giving order.”

    Paras J.Google review, Fleeke, Kadubeesanahalli

  • ★★★★★
    “Brilliant, speedy work, perfect for a last-minute task for me. Really appreciate it.”

    Subin B.Google review, Fleeke, Kadubeesanahalli

Our promise

Our guarantee, on every order, whatever its size.

  • Printed wrong? We reprint it free

    If what arrives is not what you approved, we make it again at our cost. No argument, no extra charge.

  • Mockup changes are free

    Change the colour, the size, the placement. We redo the mockup until you are happy, and only then make it.

  • You see it before it is made

    A mockup of your order to approve first. Nothing is printed or stitched until you say yes.

  • Dispatched from 4 days

    4 to 30 days from your approval, depending on the order. Your date comes in writing with the mockup.

  • Made in our own factory

    Cut, sewn, printed and embroidered by us, under an ISO 9001 quality system. One maker answers for all of it.

  • A GST invoice on every order

    With your company GSTIN on it, so your business claims the input tax credit.

  • A person, not a ticket

    One team answers on WhatsApp, phone and email, 11:00 to 21:00, every day.

  • From one piece

    A sample to hold before the run, or a single shirt for yourself. One piece is a real order.

Get a written quote

Send us your logo.

The garment, roughly how many, and the logo. We come back with a price and a mockup, before anything is made.

  • No minimum to ask: one piece is a real order on most of the range
  • Your logo stays private, seen only by our team
  • A GST invoice on every order

Rather talk? WhatsApp us or call +91 7838 821 821, 11:00 to 21:00 every day.

Start with one piece.

A sample before the run, or the whole order. Tell us which.

Rather talk? WhatsApp or call +91 7838 821 821, 11:00 to 21:00 every day, or write to info@fleeke.in.